How do you choose the right suit size?

How do you choose the right suit size?


One of the biggest fashion myths committed by men is wearing clothes of the wrong size. The vast majority of people wear clothes too big because they are perceived as sloppy and poorly dressed. It really does not take much to change this picture. You do not need the most expensive clothes, just learn how to choose the right size. It's free and it changes a lot.

Usually buying a large piece of clothing results from the fact that buyers want it to be comfortable and think that they will offer them big and too big clothes that do not match. Men often buy clothes that are too big and believe that they will get even thicker in the future. The effect is that even expensive and high-quality clothing looks like bags and the male silhouette loses its natural proportions. The desire to buy large clothes mainly affects people who weigh more than average, because they are convinced that big pants or shirts that are too big cover the disadvantages of their silhouette. Unfortunately, it is just the opposite - additional material folds add kilos. Clothes must be the right size, regardless of the weight and size of the owner. It can not be too big or too small. These are seemingly details, two inches in circumference, three inches in length, but such details affect the picture the most.

The jacket in the appropriate size and proportions brings class and shapes the figure beautifully. You need to remember that every brand uses their own design templates, and if the jacket in a store is bad, then you should go to the other in search of the model that comes closest to the ideal. Shoulders and back are one of the most important elements of the jacket, which can hardly be subjected to any customization. Therefore, the jacket must be at these points at the time of measurement. There should be no horizontal and vertical wrinkles on the back, indicating that excess material is present. The fragment where the sleeve and the shoulder are connected can not protrude beyond the shoulder line - that means the jacket in the arms is too wide. In addition to the right size, it is worthwhile to pay attention to the design of the arms. Jackets use special pillows that fill the arms and give them the right shape. Thanks to them you can distribute the proportions of the upper part of the silhouette correctly. Persons and slanted shoulders should wear jackets with a slightly thicker filling, which visually raise the falling arms and add masculine forms, while people with wide and high arms can wear jackets with minimal fill or shoulder design.

The collar is also an element that, in principle, can not be corrected by means of dimensional adjustments so that it should be accurate at the time of measurement. Cut your jacket standing up and watch the collar. It should be flush with the back and the collar of the shirt should protrude 2cm beyond the collar of the jacket.

As for the length of the jacket, the jacket should divide the figure in the middle according to the classic rules. We take into account not the head, but the torso and the legs themselves. So if someone is 160 cm from the line of shoes to the collar, the jacket should be 80 cm long. This is just a general rule and should not be treated with an accuracy of one centimeter. The most important thing is that the jacket half covers the buttocks and the whole figure is divided into two equal parts. In recent years, there is a tendency to sew shorter jackets, the above principle does not apply. Men with wide hips and a big belly should avoid such models.

When it comes to the front of the jacket, it is necessary to stand in front of the mirror and see how the jacket is placed near the chest, at the front buttons and at the sides. The lapel should be on the chest. After putting on the button, the fabric around it should not be too tight. At the level of the waist, when the hands are lowered, vertical holes should form, indicating that the jacket is adjusted correctly and that the sleeves are not too wide. This is of course not possible for silhouettes with too big a belly. It is very important that the upper button in jackets for two buttons or the middle in jackets for three buttons at the height of the narrowest space on the torso, i. in the waist, was arranged. The silhouette then optically slimmer and takes on beautiful proportions.

The lapel of the jacket should correspond to the proportions of the figure. Fashionable in recent years, narrow rags (5-6cm) are only suitable for very slim people. Men with a big breast and a big head will look bad in them. You should choose wide flaps. The shape of the flaps also allows some visual tricks. People with narrow arms can optically expand it by choosing a jacket with wide straps that ends in a lace.

The most common mistake when choosing the size of a jacket is long sleeves. This is due to the fact that men incorrectly check the length of the sleeve during the purchase. Lifting and straightening your hands is not a good position to judge their length, and that's usually the case. The length of the sleeves should be checked with your hands and wear a long-sleeved shirt. Navy sleeves should end 2 cm above the wrist. This is due to the fact that the shirt cuff stops at the wrist, and the classic rules say that it should protrude 2 cm below the jacket.

In the case of pants, besides the choice of the correct cut, the length of the legs is especially important. Many people wear pants too long. Often, men are guided by the popular principle that the leg should reach half the heel of the shoe. Forget this principle because it is wrong and wrong. When determining the length of the trousers, the visual principle should not be the reference point, as this will vary depending on the width of the trousers. The narrower trouser leg. The shorter the pants should be, because their lower edge stops at a different point of the shoe. Americans believe that the pants should reach to the heel and cover the binding of the shoe. That's the right rule, but only when we talk about pants to the legs (24-26cm) that Americans really like. Italians think that the pants should show shoes and even socks, and the bottom edge of the pants should only touch the edge of the top. And that is the right rule, but refers to narrow legs (16-19cm), typical of Italian fashion. If we wanted to apply this principle to the broad legs, the pants would bounce against the ankles and flutter like a sail. The third rule is a compromise between these two rules. It refers to the average width of the leg (20-23cm), typical of most European brands. The leg reaches to the middle of the upper leather on the back and rests on the shoe in front, which gives a small break.

High waisted pants extend the leg line and visually add inches. It's a good cut for people with short legs. Pants with darts are more comfortable because they do not adhere directly to the body, but in lean people they add kilos. However, in humans with broad thighs and a large belly, the lining partially masks these body imperfections. The cuffs shorten the figure optically, men with short legs should therefore avoid them.


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